Sire, there are no Belgians … Still, we (NL) are sorely beaten. Not in football, too much. But c’mon, this …!?
My French isn’t all that well anymore but still…

[To edit; Royal Belgian Navy]
Sire, there are no Belgians … Still, we (NL) are sorely beaten. Not in football, too much. But c’mon, this …!?
My French isn’t all that well anymore but still…

[To edit; Royal Belgian Navy]
Well, no. Not of the pyramids. We did that one yesterday / below.
Today’s a new day, hence we move the the case part, though in a similar fashion:
‘But the authors of a recent paper argue that Wallace Donham, the man credited with establishing the case method as a force at HBS in the 1920s, had evolving views of business education that have never been surfaced, and that contradict the sense that management lessons should be viewed through the narrow lens of the case study. … In the upheaval, he says, Donham saw the limits of the approach he had championed. Strangely, Donham’s apparent change of heart is not recognized in conventional histories of HBS and its iconic case method, … … The modern world had developed “a creed of competitive business morality,” he wrote. Values, he observed, were being “politely bowed to, and then handed over to the clergy to be kept for Sundays.’”‘
Oh well, yet again, read the full piece, and understand that we are on the brink of letting suchly trained, rewrite the world in AI systems. Including the morality bits [minute crumbs] – spelling the end of the above-mentioned Values. Alisdair, John and many, many others would turn in their graves [as far as they’re there already; TL;DR I didn’t check – sorry!]; if there is any hope for humanity [both dimensions], it’s in enslavement. Of the AI system(s), of course.
Quite a though swing, right? Happy for it. And:

[Be free to enjoy the view, if you can; DC]
… Like, not very much.
An architect does not give a hoot about how the foundation of a new office block looks — have a look at any underground office parking garage and see how much effort the starchitect put into that [exceptions noted]. Yes, functionality-wise it’s all good, mostly, but the architect that wants to design a Statement building, hardly will use all his (?) pastel sketch skills on the form of the piles driven into the ground, eh? As long as it’s functional bedrock to build Beauty on, in the eyes of the beholder [i.e., infatuated critic(s) not so much the general public sometimes] and of the architect’s bill, not much thought is given to foundations.
The same [we’re coming to the pointe of this post yes finally] goes for information security.
From a strategic perspective, operational risks are mundane things to be managed i.e., controlled, subdued, not sexy or attention-worthy (!); don’t bother me with the details. Get it fixed period
From an ORM perspective, the same goes down (sic) towards IRM/infosec: Don’t bother me with the details: Get it fixed semicolon cheaply. I don’t want to hear complaints how difficult it all is and how much budget you are short. You don’t need to do anything beautiful or clever, just pour concrete. I want to do whatever business frivolity I get into my head [rather: some ‘boardroom consultants’ hah the oxymoron even without the oxy, often, mess with / push into my head]. Why should I care for the foundation?
You get it now, I guess.
So:

[One lives on the inside but still, wants to have a nice look onto it from the outside, too, sometimes, no? A what about water-proofing your … floating in sometimes troubled waters? Amsterdam Omval area]
The Dutch Central Bank released a discussion paper on general principles. On AI in Finance. Here.
Oh my. What a great attempt it seemed. But by simply reading it, before studying, one finds … the usual suspect #fail’s.
Like, the decades-old big Error of non-orthagonality (Basel-II big-time #fail in Ops Risk, remember?). The principles have been grouped to backronym into Safest: Soundness, Accountability, Fairness, Ethics, Skills, Transparency. See? Already there, one can debate ad infinitum – and yes I suggest to those that want to take the DNB paper seriously to do so and leave the rest of the world to get on with it w/o being bothered by the ad … nauseam.
Soundness:
1) Ensure general compliance with regulatory obligations regarding AI applications.
2) Mitigate financial (and other relevant prudential) risks in the development and use of AI applications.
3) Pay special attention to the mitigation of model risk for material AI applications.
4) Safeguard and improve the quality of data used by AI applications.
5) Be in control of (the correct functioning of) procured and/or outsourced AI applications.
Nothing here that needs discussion as it’s all generic for decades. So, if you’d need to point this out, the suggestion is that this hadn’t been arranged for all the trillions of LoC now defining the finance industry [humans are just cogs in the machine that may turn a little screw on the production lines here and there, but preferably not too much since they have been known to be major #fail factor #1 by a huge margin]. Oh dear.
And, if there would be a reason to re-iterate now instead of always: What is different with AI systems ..?
Accountability:
6) Assign final accountability for AI applications and the management of associated risks clearly at the board of directors level.
7) Integrate accountability in the organisation’s risk management framework.
8) Operationalise accountability with regard to external stakeholders.
The same. But presuming the old 3LoD thinking still holds sway at the paper issuer’s, one might better first improve that into something above-zero relevant or effective.
Fairness:
9) Define and operationalise the concept of fairness in relation to your AI applications.
10) Review (the outcomes of) AI applications for unintentional bias.
Notice how thin the ice suddenly becomes when AI-specifics come into play… The “concept of fairness” you say ..? You mean, this pointer to inherent (sic) inconclusiveness ..? What, when the fairness to the shareholders prevails? Not much, eh? So this one leaves the finance corp.s off the hook for whatever society thinks. A superfluous principle, then, given today’s finance corp.s practices.
Unintentional bias? Good. Intentional bias is in, then. Same conclusion. The idea that a human in the loop would be any good, or have the slightest modicum of effectiveness (towards what??), has ben debunked already for such lengths that it seems the authors had missed the past thirty years of discussions re this.
Ethics:
11) Specify objectives, standards, and requirements in an ethical code, to guide the adoption and application of AI.
12) Align the (outcome of) AI applications with your organisation’s legal obligations, values and principles.
Hahahahaha !!! Ethics in finance …!!! Given the complete insult[1] of the “bankers’ oath” which would get an F- grade when proposed by any undergrad freshman, how can one truly believe an ethical code might be worth the paper / digits it’s written on/in ..!? Wouldn’t anyone proposing such a thing (in effect, the Board of the regulator that is personally accountable) be forced to step down by shown lack of competence?
And the alignment is easy, once one sees that “anything that’s not explicitly illegal” will be pursued to the values and principles of bonus maximisation through short-term profit maximisation. No, that is a fact, still. If you don’t see that, refer to the previous.
Skills:
13) Ensure that senior management has a suitable understanding of AI (in relation to their roles and responsibilities).
14) Train risk management and compliance personnel in AI.
15) Develop awareness and understanding of AI within your organisation.
Again, nothing new. Again, this hasn’t happened anywhere in the finance industry ever. In particular 13) … See 11)-12).
Transparency:
16) Be transparent about your policy and decisions regarding the adoption and use of AI internally.
17) Advance traceability and explainability of AI driven decisions and model outcomes.
Ah, finally, things get interesting. Note the aspirational explanation that is in the discussion paper. But this leaves all one would actually want to discuss, out here, unfilled of proposals or lines of thought.
Which is why the discussion paper is a 0.3 version at best. Almost all of it is a summary of how things should have been for decades [remember, banks were early adopters of ‘computers’] but apparently (and known from first-hand practice) weren’t and aren’t, with a minimal tail of actual discussion items. If this were meant to just launch the backronym, one should’ve used a one-pager.
Oh well. Plus this:

[Now that’s principle(d) design; Utrecht]
[1] As if anyone would need it – society runs on the implicit contrat social already for centuries and longer. If one needs a specific oath, something terribly specific would have to be the case, and specific implications as well. E.g., the military oath. I have pledged the officers’ oath already, and would be very severely insulted if the suggestion would be to have laid that aside like a coat upon leaving active service to the constitution.
When the economy is moving to platforms as the core structure, can we do e.g., AI / data analysis as a service, white labelling some stuff that all accountants will have to go through, to get State-of-the-Art to them ..?
This could go in all sorts of directions, but preferably in the one that has loosely (sic) coupled systems [in the small-scope sense, not the cybernetics sense], one or a couple for every stage of the audit process. E.g., for the Know-Your-Customer Deep Dive Stage (after the KYC before acquiring a client, and the acquiring) have some process analysis tools; for the risk analysis / audit planning have … [I don’t see too much in this plane yet qua tooling!]; for the data-oriented (all-data checking) have the Mindbridge’s et al. for the crunching. The latter pointing to a. having nothing qua overarching workflow management tools yet [No, not the standard workflow things; I mean auto/AI-gated stuff far beyond the triviality of ‘RPA‘ (UI Path and others) that is just handy but trivial automation; unsure whether this is a step ahead already], b. intricacies of learning / feedback loops year over year.
And then, all this should, could be white-labelled up in the Cloud somewhere (in the EU) of course; ease of maintenance and interfacing.
But heck, this is just dropping the idea, right?
[Drafted 22 May, so in the mean time there may have been some developments. Hope so.]
And:

[But for this, no cloud-based thing suffices, you must do a site visit to check on quality; Valle dell’Acate]
Have naming conventions already sprung up around home eavesdropping listening devices ..?
Since ‘Alexa’ and ‘Siri’ may be too boring.
Then I would want to call it Computer, since then I’d be able to all the time say ‘OK Computer’. Not even for this. But certainly for this, that one would get a lot when one would use its (‘her’? oh, this may be taken to expect ‘his’) ‘services’ too often / too broad-ly.
I’ll stop now. For the vrijmibo – Friday’s Afternoon Drinks.
What ..? Now already? Yes; one’s taste buds are best in the second half of the morning. Later, your taste will develop in correlation with the number of drinks you can remember to have had. Also, I checked where it is 17:00h now on this site and got confirmation.
And:

[Off-‘Broadway’ Rafael Masó i Valentí, Farinera Texidor, Carrer Santa Eugènia 15, Girona though officially at Passatge de la Farinera Teixidor, 4]
When strategy is culture’s breakfast, ethics are your ethics’ lunch – you’re so much more biased by very accidental culture than you think.
Those involved in anti-biasing AI, tend to belong to a very small group of ‘first world’ affluent (sic) secondary-productive counterweights.
Very small group, since a minute fraction of the Western world pop, let alone the latter already being vastly outnumbered by the rest;
First-world, since very bound up in ‘Western’ countries;
Affluent, since apparently with (mental) time on hand to be vocal about it, and travel the world (by plane, almost always) to be/speak at seminars and conferences…;
Secondary-productive, since a. with time on one’s hand, b. living off others’ production life;
Counterweights, since in contra against societal developments. [Also: re secondary]
As was with the ‘Universal’ humans rights [revelation: They weren’t, and aren’t; they’re still cultural imperialism!], now with the downsides of e.g., AI deployment.
No, I’m not advocating to not listen.
No, I’m not advocating to ignore or silence / fight back against them.
No, I am for balanced views, that not hinge on win/lose but on win/win. If you are still on the win/lose path(s), you represent, are Old thinking and need to change yourself first before communicating with others; otherwise it’s only the veneer that you want to shove onto everyone not real content.
And, at an angle but far from a perpendicular one, ethics are swamped by more immediate needs. Noticed that in many AI discussions, it turns out that humans have all of their existence, and the aeons before, always survived only by ‘good enough’ pattern inference, the strive for perfect having been eradicated biologically (Evolution) as being too expensive to survive ..?
Real people, like your parents, live in a world where culture, education (narrow and wide sense!), religion (ritualised wisdom), environment (‘local’ climate and societally) and the course of life have made them to what they are. All individuals, with a staggering complexity of reflexes and instincts plus a minute layer of conscious behaviour.
When you badger on about ‘ethics’, you’re only us-them’ing on them, near-certainly in a very bad, caricatural way; also perpetrating the very crimes you accuse them of (almost exclusively: falsely). If in your bubble’let, you think yourself the majority. Remember Twain’s quote: Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.
Also, how do you un-bias when today’s biases are tomorrow’s mainstream ethics? Don’t think that will not happen. It already does. How are you sure your current-day ethics aren’t tomorrow’s absolute abhorrent crimes against humanity? You can’t be, and should realise it can get that bad in a couple of decades or less.
And do you really believe society can be engineered ..? Have you studied history, both near and far, and what have you found other than dismal totalitarian dictatorships ..?
Now, rethink. Again, when you do, you may find yourself in a new position or not who would I be to claim either one will happen …
But think you must. The one that doesn’t, is Wrong.
On a cheerful note:

[Him again, with a message. DC]
Turns out we don’t even need smart kids to pull this one off – just smart activists. As exepelainifyed here (also in the comments), there are numerous ways to throw (e.g., home security) surveillance cameras off-guard or rather, off-line qua function. Not needing to get close with a spray can anymore, but like firearms replaced hand to hand battle (not mano al mano), so your plastic doorbell gets wrecked remotely.
Surprising no-one, I guess, of the ones who pay attention in the way of knowing that technology will fail. Surprising all that it’s this easy. Somehow, also it’s comparable with throwing off your servant-to-the-lazy-as-dead, like here. [If you have use for these, you might as well take yourself out of the gene pool before polluting the planet to pieces.]
Both issues pointing at the human weakness, of mind. So often setting too many limitations and requirements, so often setting too little of both. Let’s hope Technology (this kind) doesn’t find out (it will) or we’re all doomed before we humanity have destroyed life on earth anyway. Again raising the question: when we will with certainty do the latter, shouldn’t we ensure that the Big S metasystem can take over, not needing traditional generational ‘life’ anymore ..?
Oh well. This:

[Zero reason for using this pic. But it’s nice qua graphics. Just like your dysfunctional home security system. Baltimore of course.]
How is it possible, other than by monopolistic oligopoly, that ‘loyalty’ programs by e.g., airliners and supermarkets, aren’t; in fact, seem to be the opposite ..?
Take airlines: Sure, some travel a lot, and the same for private purposes on their reward points.
But… What are the airlines rewarding? Not loyalty. The very same customer will fly whatever takes them to their business (..!) destinations cheapest, excepting a few kickback discounts and overrulings by potentates that want to keep collecting private miles thus robbing their employers of savings. And points, sometimes. If it isn’t enough punishment already to those left behind, that others are away on fancy trips at company’s expense, the same travellers also get the points? The ‘draconian’ measure here and there where points are retrieved by the employer and allotted to all employees (or returned to the airlines for money, one guesses), makes sense from a fairness perspective.
Don’t fool yourself into believing there’s loyalty from customer companies towards any airline. It’s about money and nothing else.
And, what is loyalty? Is it measured by the number of miles one flies? As per the above; business traveller dominate the landscape (those who really fly a lot on private expense, switch to jetsharing as fast as they can anyway – about as disloyal as one can define), and as said they don’t care the least. And they take travel in short bursts, like, for only five to ten years; before and after that, they very very very often travel far, far less, for less, or immediately jump ship to a low-cost cattle-class start-up.
Yes, the key point is there: Five to ten years only – what absurd definition of ‘loyalty’. E.g. (!) personally, I’ve been on preference with one airliner (only) since my first flight back in ’69. How is that loyalty rewarded? You guessed it: By scoff ever more. I flew on the airline before the vast majority of its current employees were even born, and yet ‘nobody knows you’ let alone rewards anything for such long loyalty. Instead of giving one more and more points when one returns again and again over the years regardless of a temporary bump-up due to business travel, it is joiners that get the free points bonus and the rest may as well not exist.
Customers are hardly-graciously allowed to be loyal, but the peasants mustn’t annoy.
Where did Marketing change to not tell any longer that the 80% customer base is much more valuable than the 20% new/other customers you’re chasing, with retainer costs at 20% comp. to the 80% cost applied to the prospects?
If you tell me that airliners don’t have the records from 20, 30, … 50 years back and/or can’t match, then that’s their problem.
Same for supermarkets. Some discounts here and there are nice, but definitely the same for everyone, and the lift/shift part is obvious (sometimes ridiculously so) with the /retention part being nowhere.
Complain that it is the customers that walk away for the slightest discount at your competitor? Consider the flight of fantasy [I know…] that you made them disloyal with your complete disinterest and inattention…
Oh well:

[Your ‘loyalty’ will leave you in the middle of nowhere; somewhere in Iowa of Ohio or has anyone the actual coordinates? Oh wait is it here: https://www.donqinn.net/ ..?]
As we stated earlier, data is not the new oil. Or gold.
In fact, data is not only perishable as in losing its value over time.
It is also not the definitive, runaway network effect-affected first-is-winner-takes-all. As displayed in this great piece of analysis.
Now, this would be manageable, workable into a ‘new’ ‘model’ if not from the link, I also read, quite in the distance, also a (very early) warning sign that the current Theory of Firm, which we critiqued before, may need to take into account that also internally, ‘organisations’ need to pay attention; at some point [oddly named such; it’s more of an n-dimensional vague area] size doesn’t matter. Edited to add: also remember the tidbits that the Great casually sprinkled around on the subject of ‘information’ as the key concept for future, fluid-all-around, intra- en exo-business structures in this, plus in this and this. Apologies that these three go so much beyond this mere detail of ‘data’ or ‘information’. ‘tSeems that just as everyone is starting to grasp that data is nothing, information is everything [even when this, even as severely limited it is], the new <see above failphrase> gets attention. Some. Too much already. Let’s quit and move on to the Great’s ideas of reorganising organisational life.
Just can’t really pinpoint how this would work out, but Menno Lanting‘s Oil tankers and Speedboats is involved here, too.
In the hope that you help with the pinpointing, awaiting your illuminating comments …
Probably in vain [ heck that song is about me…! ].
But oh wait; there’s a moderation of the above. Pre-publishing, the idea of Seed Data came to me.
By which I mean that one can start any unicorn, if one has one’s hands on sufficiently large data sets to get off the ground. No bootstrapping without boots — only if one has at least sufficient data to train some neural net on basics, can one proceed with early adoptors (not adopters or adaptors ..!) to develop the system further, and by doing so gain both additional well-curated data and a close following that profits most – and hopefully will be vocal about your service(s). But you’ll need the Seed Data to do anything at all at the starting gate, you just can’t invent a system and train it on air.
But now I’m done, hence:

[Freudian, the Belfort at Lille … No I don’t have a horizon issue when photographing …!]

Voor sigaren bepalen we het profiel aan de hand van de criteria Smaak, Balans, Body, Sterkte, Aroma en Finish.
Voor Smaak pakken we het aromawiel erbij. Let wel I; wat u proeft of verwacht, kan gedurende de diverse fasen van het roken nog variëren... En let wel II; er zijn ook aspecten die nog niet zozeer als aroma staan aangegeven in het wiel, we denken aan termen als (ja de sigarenwereld is langzamerhand, helaashelaas US-, Engels geworden) zesty, tangy, floral, en earthy, of soms zelfs metallic. Lijkende termen die een combi zouden kunnen zijn van diverse aromas en papillaire en olfactorische/nasale sensaties en -tactiele invloeden. Hierbij komen termen als 'complex' uiteraard ook bijgepakt, om in dit geval te beschrijven dat er vele aromas herkenbaar zijn. Rustig roken, dat is niet alleen beschaafder en allerlei sigarenrokeneffecten-versterkend maar biedt ook meer kans om aromas te onderscheiden.
Balans is voor de hand liggend; of de zoete, zure, zoute en bittere tonen (OK, en 'umami'...) in balans zijn. Ja, ook bij een sigaar – al zal het meestal gaan over de balans tussen 'creamy' en 'spicy' en gaat het meestal mis door te veel bitter of te veel spiciness.
Body gaat over de volheid, in dit geval vooral te bepalen aan de volheid, dikte, dichtheid van de rook. Die ook een gevoel geeft; 'light' is als een licht bier, 'full-bodied' is als een rechttoe-rechtaan whisky of cognac.
Overigens hoort bij Body ook textuur, 'leathery', 'meaty', 'silky', 'creamy', 'soft', 'succulent', 'woody', 'chalky', 'dry', 'oily' en 'spicy'. Die dus net niet hetzelfde zijn als de aroma-indicatoren uit het wiel; soms overlappend. Niet handig maar zo is het nu eenmaal.
Sterkte is een wat eenvoudiger maat voor het nicotinegehalte van de sigaar. De topbladeren van een tabaksplant heeft meer nicotine dan de lagere bladeren – me(n) dunkt dat de topbladeren zijn waar de plant verder wil groeien en dus betere bescherming nodig heeft van de nico; lager is het wat ouder en 'expendible' dus ga je daar als plant niet je nico op concentreren ..? Waar de sigaar van gemaakt is, heeft dus invloed. Kan je meestal niet kiezen, maar wel proeven. Rustig roken is ook hier handig; om een nico-klap/duizel te voorkomen bij het opstaan.
Aroma dan, vervolgens. Ook hier kan het aromawiel worden ingezet. Vreemd genoeg is het moeilijk de aromas te bepalen als we zelf roken; iemand anders' rook kunnen we beter analyseren. Of we blazen de rook door de neus uit ('retrohaleren'), dan hebben we wel de volle verfijning (ga ik vanuit, lezer!) van onze neus ter beschikking. Bedenk bij het 'benoemen' overigens dat we veel meer uit ons geheugen putten, qua eten en drinken!, dan we wellicht zelf(s) denken. Dus rare smaken herkennen is niet raar.
De Finish ten slotte is kort of lang, naargelang de aromas lang op de tong (sic) blijven hangen. Milde sigaren zijn nogal eens kort – hetgeen niks zegt over de complexiteit, overigens. Hierin zit ook de reden om een zwaar (sterkte)kanon na een milde te nemen, niet andersom.
Als het gaat over de champagnes en hun profielen, pakken we er de (echte en semi-)klassieke wijn-analyses bij die we allemaal wel kennen; onderscheidend in [Hier verder. In ieder geval https://www.wijnwinewein.nl/hoe-proef-je-wijn/ en aromawiel + zuurgraad/tannines/body(viscositeit/alcohol/tannines/smaakintensiteit/mondgevoel)/afdronk + Aanzet/Zuren/Zachtheid/Tannine/Body en alcohol/Afdronk/Smaken dus de aromas bijna-los van structurele criteria. Dan de smaken matchen met die van sigaren, of niet; Klosse's overlap/contrasten erbij halen en dan verder. En toespitsen op champagnes... pak het smaak-plaatje van het CIVC erbij!]
Dear reader; bij deze dus de waarschuwing dat u vanaf hier (?, inderdaad, echt niet alleen hier) serieus te lange zinnen tegenkomt.
Ach, daar ben ik me prima van bewust, mijn hele blog is immers ook een poging tot schrijfoefening in alle facetten. Sommige posts daar blinken uit door korte zinnen en ellipsis; ook deze pagina is opgesteld als tegenwicht. En ik vertrouw erop dat u dat gewoon doorlezend aankunt.
Als voorbeeld: Oplettende lezers zullen opmerken dat onderstaande waar het uitweidingen achter links naar andere pagina's betreft wellicht beter met behulp van OnMouseOver's, alt-tekstblokken of andere tags per pop-uppable item zou kunnen zijn geïmplementeerd maar ik heb het zo gekozen en ik kan best komma's toevoegen in deze zin maar ook dat heb ik achterwege gelaten zonder de leesbaarheid of de begrijpbaarheid in het gedrang te brengen.


Inderdaad, het ontwikkelde, ik schreef, een en ander vanuit een voortdurende, voortgaande research. Na zoeken in het wilde weg algemeen, navraag bij het Comité (iv) Champagne, een aanvullend zelfzoeken met Google Satellite én Street View zowel rond de officiële als in het algemeen, kwam ik tot de Lijst Van (uiteindelijk) 84. De en passant gevonden kaarten leidden tot enige aanvulling. Toen kwam ik Weinlagen.de tegen en tsja dan ben ik niet meer te houden qua sys-te-matisch alle streken én plaatsjes af! Hoewel, ... in onderstaande tabel heb ik maar niet meer voor ieder stuks de Street View erop losgelaten of onderstaand ingevuld. Terwijl ik er vanuit ga dat dit alles nog aanvulling kan krijgen ... Les Clos Inconnus zijn uiteraard zichzelf.
De gangen kwamen al zeer onregelmatig door, en met andere tafels die uitliepen en/of (weer) bijtrokken, tot zeer ver inhalen zelfs, tot gang 6 van de 7 tachtig (schrijve: 80) minuten op zich liet wachten, ondanks diverse malen navraag. Waarna het nauwelijks-opgewarmde pompoen met koude polenta bleek te zijn; "dat hoort zo" ammehoela. Nee, het niet-koude nagerecht erna hebben we niet gehaald; we zijn opgestaan en weggegaan. Die zien ons nooit meer, zeker omdat de bediening ook Zwak was (gangen aan verkeerde tafeltjes serveren want die waren al twee gangen verder), etc. En balsimaco-saus dus, 'et al.'...
Huh, da's écht voor de Insiders..? Inmiddels wel toegestaan als aanplant, maar nog zo'n drie tot tien jaar onderweg voor er de eerste re-de-lijke wijnen van kunnen worden gemaakt en dan is het nog maar afwachten. Je weet het niet van tevoren hè, met zo'n non-Vinifera druivensoort..! En dan had je Floreal, Artaban en Vidoc nog niet gezien. Die mogen (in de toekomst) ook... En dan is het Comité Champagne ook nog bezig met kruisingen van de Top 3, Arbane, Meslier, en Gouais. #feest
En dan komt hierna een nóg spectaculairdere outsider: Chardonnay rose Rs, minder dan een kwart voetbalveldje aanplant...
Mineraliteit verdient een aparte behandeling; vanuit het idee van 'huh er zit echt geen mineraal/steen in je wijn en lik jij aan stenen-dan'-versus-'toch proef ik die sensatie en Ja' tot en met de abstracte benadering van een kennelijke associatie van een gewaarwording als hier, tot een synthese op de as 'bodem-microbiologie'-in-combinatie-met-'feitelijke chemie'. Want, jawel, fenylmethaanthiol zorgt voor vuursteen / aangestoken lucifer, in combinatie met benzaldehyde (uit 'hout') en waterstofdisulfide (uit reductie; en beide uit bepaalde gisten!) leidend tot Vuursteen-herkenning, versterkt bij anorganische ammonia bijvoorbeeld. Vuursteen is geen 'mineraliteit' maar daar wel belangrijk onderdeel van. Dus Ja, er zitten wel degelijk chemische stoffen in (niet alle gelukkig) wijn die een sensatie veroorzaken die op mineraliteit lijkt. Zout, uiteraard, ook, (niet meer maar wel) vaker dan we denken! Alles tezamen een uit-ste-ken-de reden om te spreken over herkenning van Mineraliteit in wijn. 0-10 en een penalty tegen voor de geo-logen.
Laherte Petit Meslier in the tasting round
Yes @laherteaurelien makes a monocépage of this one. Great Meslier it is:
The golden colour would suggest something dosée, but look closer and you notice a hue which points to slight bitter influences. And indeed, on the nose we get a whiff of smoke, certainly straight after the pour; quite an opportunity to use the word ‘empyreumatic’... Did I mention Meslier already? One to one it is. But nothing referring to your cooking qualities; it’s more like a distant secondhand puff of Belinda – I’d not suggest you buy that for comparison; trust me as smoker it’s trash but as Meslier aroma it’s excellent full stop. Crispy dry cigar smoke fits better.
Certainly, since this all is followed up, much more persistently, with quite some mature lemon and a whole slew of herbs and spices notes. It smells like a merry-go-round of eucalyptus, dill, thyme, spearmint, soft mint, basil, anison, verveine... wormwood even; those that know génépi, find it here, too.
The first sip jumps in with a most delicate mousse, a sensible but not too fatty mouthfeel, nicely balanced with lemon dominant in combo, and ginger/pineapple/mirabelle and dry lemon rind flipping back and forth. In the remarkably long finish, the rind does a gentle cleanse.
But I couldn’t find any cardamom that some mention, nor cocoa or coffee. All in all, in cocktail terms it would fit in the range of the French 75 and a Fleurette.
I’ve tried a little bite of camembert, but you shouldn’t. The bitter of the wine is lost but notches up in the cheese, which tastes odd. The fit with lightly aged Comté or same-Gouda is perfect, however. Sushi should work, too, if with a suitably subtle pinch of wasabi, no more – harsh coriander, algae, chervil, wasabi as such weren’t in the nose.
In summary: All of you should have a taste of this one, or one couldn’t be trusted on champagne connoisseurship.
[Degorge 12-2021, hence the progressed maturity]
Links:
https://maverisk.nl/de-forgotten-four/ for Petit Meslier
https://maverisk.nl/champ-sigaar/ on the cigar smoke angle
https://maverisk.nl/geneprima-spul-hoor/ on génépi
https://maverisk.nl/mirabelle-wil-iedereen-welle/ on mirabelle
@champagnepascalmazet make quite an interesting range of wines, fully certified bio since 1980. We tasted the Cuvée Originel bottling of 2014, for its 35% Pinot Blanc of course; interested to learn how such a Forgotten Four lead, with the three Usual Suspects trailing, would work out.
‘Splendidly’ is the answer.
The gold is striking, the nose is suitably complex. One gets mint, cucumber, cornichon tartness (I mean, the true kind of https://www.kesbeke.nl/) and some olive.
On the palate, it switches to agrumes-allsorts. Yuzu, lightly pre-ripened apricot (yes there’s acidity in there), sparkling grape (ah.) and a hint of almond already. This slowly develops into lemon-grapefruit on the one hand, and yellow curry / pineapple on the other, with a tangerine almost orange'y element integrating both sides. I’d say, there’s a marbling of mirabelle (in Dutch: https://maverisk.nl/mirabelle-wil-iedereen-welle/) running through it as well.
‘But’ overall it certainly is far from flubby (the 3g dosage having turned into the above, no sirup) or acidic. The quality of it all, and the light oak touch, twist all the richness back towards the freshness of citrus zest. And did I mention the mousse is still there, slowly releasing?
Towards the lingering finish, this all persists in a extremely well-balanced acidity and a hint of minerality and sophisticated bitterness.
Am I happy to have another one of these standing ready
Marie Courtin Présence
I bought the @ch_mariecourtin for the 1/3 Pinot Blanc (of course: https://tinyurl.com/ForgotFour !). High expectations, exceeded.
First off, the yellow-golden almost amber colour would promise some sweet almost creamy elements. But with a delightfully tingle from a fresh mousse, and a light bitter-tartness in the nose, the picture turns around completely. There’s Mirabelle ..! [As per: https://tinyurl.com/Mirabellepg]
The palate is perfect; not too much mousse so the real ‘wine’ taste is clear, and the Mirabelle keeps on coming. The mouth feel overall is well-balanced, and includes a soft minty/dill side with the lemon (plus some bittersweet orange even), moving into the grapefruit area and then the mirabelle’s back again. The very long finish has the mint/dill combo again, and an inkling of sugar. But with zero dosage, that’ll be the Chard and almost certainly the Pinot Blanc waving goodbye. Throughout, there’s a slight undertow of pickled cornichon (Amsterdam style; what else?)
All in all, it’s a wonderful demo of what Pinot Blanc can bring; lifting the Chard from its average whilst pulling itself up into high performance. Merging the best of both into Something Else of a great wine. This being a zero dosage, zero sulphur added, zero intervention wine, it also proves that ‘natural’ wines need not be f(l)unky. But on the contrary, one would hardly be able to tell.
The Présence is course material in so many ways. Am I happy? Well, not with six other dwarfs but yes, very much so.
The @champagne_gruet Cuvée Arbane …
𝘚𝘰𝘮𝘦𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘌𝘭𝘴𝘦 entirely!
100% Arbane yes. Which brings a freshness too long lost. Reminds me of the bone dry styles of yesteryear, in a good, rather great way. Chalky without dust, minerality without flint. A wonderful conversation starter, on the good things of life.
With a fresh and quite light, lemon-white colour through which a very fine and persistent mousse promises delight. Then, on the nose, one gets a first whiff of floral notes; jasmine, elderberry, rose – followed by zingy but ripe lemon. When allowed to mellow in the glass (or a day in the bottle), the lemon slowly brings along some grapefruit, pineapple and (dry white) melon. All within measure, refined, nowhere too in-your-face’y.
The mouthfeel is brilliant with the mousse playing its role to keep the very well balanced aspects all quite light. The dosage is hardly noticeable – from the taste of it, one would estimate 2g. max, and notes of soft white peach, light albedo, with a very long finish on the thyme/mint/dill spectrum with the albedo bitters lingering on.
Would work miraculously with e.g., flounder with serious sauce and herbs, swordfish with almond crusting, maybe tuna or mackerel, or white meat.
Saw a score somewhere of 91/100, but that's too low.
Buxeuil doesn’t have any Arbane of its own (in production), but with this Gruet wine, it has a flagship.
Arbane being at only 0,018% (yes, percent) of Champagne’s acreage, this cuvée highlights the 'need' (want!) for quite an extension of that.
Tasting the Pinot Blanc champagne of Gruet of Buxeuil (@champagne_gruet). That’s right, a pure-bred PB champagne. (Be sure to pick the right one, at https://www.champagne-gruet.com/)
And it is a treat, indeed.
In the glass, we have a very fine mousse, well-integrated - it continues very, very long and doesn’t just give a one-off foam layer – through a pale gold, slightly varietal-typical PB wine.
On the nose, the typical character come through immediately, including a slightly fluffy air of white flowers around light tangerine / (white) peach / mirabelle, and a core of lime – keeping nicely short of being bitter.
The mouthfeel is light, but not fleeting. One gets beautiful straight near-ripe lemon, a waft of mint with white blossom, and some white pepper towards the back. Add to that lemon white skin with edges of red grapefruit.
Mind you; I had kept some for a second tasting, and four days (suitably cool storage) after opening, all this was still as fresh. No ‘dosage plays up after too much air’ or so; great.
A top recommendation, this one. If only to keep the Forgotten Four Cépages alive, as they deserve, but also for sheer tasting pleasure. Or ‘the trick one’ at a tasting experiment. Or for an apéritif or with whitish seafood (if not to lime’y or salty).
The Réminiscence 100% pinot blanc brut nature by @champagneericlegrand via @jeromeschampagne. Supposedly off 65+yr old vines, but one would be hard-pressed to tell that by the wine. What delicious freshness!
For a start: What would one expect from a pure PB champagne? Subtlety indeed.
It starts with a new capsule (for me, to further fill my https://www.deknudtframes.fr/en/catalog/product/s65sz2-/frame-in-black-for-champagne-caps which only applies to *different* capsules I tasted *at home*) – under a muselet to duly impress. After a good whiff, one can immediately pick up the something-different of this one. The first 80% is most clearly artichoke with some mint; not very strange since we just made such a dip for (neutral) crackers five minutes before.
After which, with careful nosing/tasting, we get a white-floral element with traces of almonds and yes even a hint of vanilla and the slightest of dried yellow fruit. This continues in the long developing taste, clearly adding ‘a point’+ ripe lemon (citron), with the etheric element slowly (very slowly) fizzling out. Can I say ‘retronasally’ there? As it tactilely *feels* that way for sure. Add some vanilla points in the long after.
All in all, a thing to be savoured. And, let’s promote these ‘forgotten four’ champagnes! Away with the factory work! (One suspects the 24x range by some famous grand marque points in the right away direction, too, qua hyper-mass production orientation.) The more sure we have of being able to choose to never have to taste a same champagne ever again in one’s lifetime. *If* one would want to – wines like the Réminiscence make one still would want to return often. Extend the plantation!
Another round for Gruet of Buxeuil (@champagne_gruet) – The Cuvée des 3 Blancs (as here)
With its matte gold, almost amber appearance and very fine mousse (hardly foamy but lingering in the mouth for a long, long time), we'd expect the Pinot Blanc to dominate over the Arbane and even Chard. It does. A little. But, as assemblages go, only a little; I'd rather say one can identify the PB by its gently soft but full agrumes/mirabelle character but there's a lot of exquisite light flowers – hawthorn – and herb'iness – in the sage, rosemary corner – already in the aromas. Would that be the continuum of the Arbane and Chard?
If one would want to take it analytically.
Savouring, one would enjoy the all-round calm structure, with a medium to full mouthfeel (nothing sticky). And just the image (?) of a surprisingly light white wine with lots of mature grapefruit, lemon and a slice of lime. From which the little bitter note lingers on in the back, most pleasantly refreshing, nothing astringent or harsh. Overall, certainly not chalky bone dry but a hint of mango.
Would I pair this all with food ..? That would be a. hard; a very careful cheese selection might do, b. interesting, to see where the flavours go (see below), c. not necessary, it's a wonderful treat on its own.
This, in a series of Forgotten Four tastings, as per this 'research'.
And the (aubépine and) mirabelle note, Gruet themselves also list. Nice, yet another example of that great aroma.
Plus, one of course has e.g., this and this book, or quite a few others, already..?
Of boek. Hoewel er een beperkt aantal boeken is dat ik hoog heb, zit er niet een[1] bij die nou net op het onderdeel dat mij respectievelijk interesseert, het α tot en met ω heeft. Waar-om en waardoor ik juist de verdere research wil/ 'moet' doen...
[1] Nou ja, deze komt in de buurt...
Jazeker! Zoveel is zeker: Voor bijvoorbeeld de Fransen is dat een volstrekt normale karakterisering. Het gaat dus niet om NaCl uit een Jozo-vaatje... Eerder "off-vuursteen"; denk ook aan de regio van hints in de verte bij wit-peperigheid en magnesium in de buurt. Niet vreemd, als oesters zeer rijk zijn aan zink (sic), ijzer, calcium (dûh) en selenium. Sommigen in NL zeggen dan dat je geen 'zout' of zelfs maar 'zilt' mag zeggen. 1. Van wie niet ..!? 2. Waarom niet ..!? 3. Dat is toch voor zéér velen de beste karakterisering – niemand beweert dus dat er keukenzout in uw wijn zit en iedereen weten dat de karakterisering losstaat van enige bewering van objectieve chemische samenstelling anders zouden we wijnaroma's héél anders beschrijven!
Of zelfs Philpatrick het moet niet gekker worden ... Dus denk niet dat de spellcheck op hol sloeg.
De Cuvée Métisse, noirs et blancs oftewel 80% PN en, jawel, 20% Pinot Blanc, wederom een assemblage met een van de Forgotten Four. Brut nature dat houdt het puur, klaargemaakt bij de BV Val du Clos dan nemen we ook een verre hint daarvan mee. Van Champagne Olivier Horiot, MeB juli 2020, dégorge 16 jan 2023, grotendeels oogst 2019 plus nog een scheut uit de Réserve Perpétuelle die op eik wordt gehouden – ja ik kwam 'm in een coin oublié tegen maar prijs me gelukkig. Quelle belle ouvrage! Als u denkt: Da's een nogal technisch verhaal – dan is dat juist maar het proeven is gewoon een onbekommerd plezier. Het begint uiteraard met de sprankelende licht-amber kleur en een neus met het lichte bittertje, denk aan het dille-thijm spectrum, van de Blanc. Terwijl dan de eerste smaak van de Noir komt. Hoewel licht door de jaren, en dat pufje bitter komt er snel weer bij. Rijpe-appelzuur, heel lang gematigd door-coastend verdund citroensap met in de verte mango en met witte zest erboven zwevend. Maar wel in complete balans, niet vlak of zo maar juist met transparante diepte. Toen ik er een hapje net-nog-niet-compleet-rijpe ananas(kern) bij nam, was dat een moeiteloze, zowat volledige overlap. Later komt er een onderstroom(pje) van iets dat neigt naar kruiden door de mond. En nog steeds met zeer fijne bulles, by the way; verfrissend zonder prikje. In termen van verwachte aroma's zou ik eerder tussen Chard en Meunier op pad gaan van jong naar iets voorbij het midden, en zeker niet te ver naar de rijpe complexe PN-hoek zakken. Al met al een 'opulente' wijn die verrassend jong van geest is (gebleven). De PN is meer steun dan leider in het geheel; prima! En de PB viert z'n vrijheid om te shinen; uitstekende reclame!
5 Sens: De Oogst-2017, MiB 24 juli 2018, Dégorge 12 mei 2023 ja zo exact, met nul dosage voor slechts 1320 fles plus 90 magnums. Van 5 verschillende terroirs, oude stokken van 5 verschillende cépages – PN, Chard en Meuier, en dus ook Arbane en Pinot Blanc; langzaam vergist en opvoeding sur lies. Dat geeft volgens de makers de vijf (jawel) elementen Water, Aarde, Luchten Vuur – en l'Esprit! Wederom een assemblage dus van Olivier Horiot (op @horiotolivier) met Forgotten Four, klaargemaakt bij de BV Val du Clos dan nemen we ook een verre hint daarvan mee. Zo, dan heeft u de data gehad. In termen van aroma's als op de vaste plaat gaat het alle kanten heen, waarbij we ook (laten we zeggen 'traditionele') Chard- en PN-aroma's tegenkomen. Maar niet te uitdrukkelijk. Om het op een rijtje te zetten: De kleur is vol maar licht goud; De mousse is heerlijk, (nog) ruimschoots aanwezig maar zeer fijn; In de neus krijgen we eerst rozenblaadjes en een tikkie mango, maar zo nu en dan ook een zweem ziltigheid ..? Een ander zou het ook witte-peperigheid kunnen noemen. Sommigen vinden dat Arbane meidoorn en anjer geeft; nou ja dat kan ik begrijpen maar pikte ik niet op. Noch wat appel en kweepeer, dat gewicht trof ik minder: Het volle mondgevoel zit stevig in de citrus-hoek. Denk aan lauwwarme, (over)rijpe citroen met een beetje suikerrijpe peer en (geblancheerde) ananas, op het mirabelle af maar wel met een los zwevend zuurtje dat eronderdoorlangs komt zweven, inclusief een puntje venkel/dille. Ik denk dat hier vooral de wat rijpere Pinot Blanc om de hoek komt kijken. Maar al met al wordt het nergens te zwaar; de wijn blijft gewoon helemaal in balans; De citroen is de core der (talrijke) caudalies; zelfbewust maar niet zwaar. Nou ja, als eindconclusie; deze zit op het niveau van een lichte montbazillac of sauternes met mousse..! Werkelijk heerlijk. Voor zover er wat bij moet worden gehapt, zou ik zeggen: Niet te licht, niet te dicht op de sla/Brillat-Savarin-hoek, of te kale zilte oesters. Eerder oesters met enige bewerking, zou ik zeggen. Als per deze – en een geel- of roodschimmelkaasje kan ook nog prima. (vandaar; lichte sauternes ...) – oh en een salade met cajunkip kan ook ...

Étoiles du Nord, voor uw betere wijnen...
Al is het alleen maar door Il Respiro del Vino te kunnen lezen; geen vertaling tot nu toe dan maar zwoegen.
Le Chardonnay rose est une mutation du Chardonnay blanc que l’on trouve historiquement à l'état de ceps isolés dans les vignobles champenois et bourguignons. La mutation porte principalement sur la couleur de la baie qui est d’un rose foncé à maturité. Cette différence a abouti à la proposition d’individualiser le Chardonnay rose comme une variété distincte de sa forme blanche et de l’inscrire en tant que telle au Catalogue français.
L’origine de ce cépage est difficile à dater. Néanmoins, il existe quelques repères comme la date de son introduction dans la collection de Vassal-Montpellier en 1950 ; deux accessions (ou "introduction" est un clone non agréé conservé dans une collection) de Chardonnay rose y ont été plantées cette année-là. La première, issue de l'ancienne collection dite "de Ravaz" de l'Ecole de Montpellier (donc la date réelle est antérieure à 1950), provenait initialement de la Côte d'Or. La deuxième provenait de la "collection Couvreur Pernin", à Rilly-la-Montagne dans la Marne.
Depuis peu, le Domaine de Vassal-Montpellier possède également deux accessions assainies issues du clone de Rilly-la-Montagne. Récemment de nouvelles accessions de Chardonnay rose ont été recensées dans le vignoble champenois, preuve d’un intérêt croissant pour ce cépage ancien. Cependant, la disparition progressive des veilles vignes ainsi que la pression croissante des viroses, faisaient craindre la perte de diversité génétique au sein de ce cépage et l’abandon de sa culture.